Water, Water, Everywhere

I am just back from a wonderful holiday, which ended in an extraordinary two-day stay at the magical Inn at Cuckolds Light House, located in Booth Bay Harbor, Maine.

I have wanted to stay in a light house all of my life and so it wasn’t too much of a surprise that when I reached the top of the ramp and walked toward Cuckolds Lighthouse, suddenly there were tears in my eyes.

Approaching

Writing about this place is beyond my skill. You have to feel a lighthouse island, not read about it. You have to feel the isolation, the wind, the crashing waves, and the sheer openness of the space, the wet, rocky surround and the vastness of the sky above. Words are utterly lame. Like trying to describe a mystical experience, it just ain’t happening!

Arriving

What I can share with you is some of the history of this gorgeous place and how, through the determination of local Maine people, it survived the willingness of the United States Coast guard to abandon it.

 Quoting from the history on the website: “In May 2006, a small, committed band of local citizens, organized as the Cuckolds Fog Signal and Light Station Council, succeeded in its efforts to rescue the lighthouse as the deed to the property was presented to the Council. Since then, volunteer-led efforts have been the driving force to restore the historic light station that serves as the “front porch light” for the greater Booth Bay region.

View off the rocks

 Built in 1892 as a fog signal station with a keeper’s house attached, Cuckolds Lighthouse was constructed on the highest part of the small island. The light tower was added in 1907. Two families shared the living space, each man on a twelve-hour shift tending the light and cranking the foghorn at regular intervals when necessary. A hard life.

From the top of the lighthouse

Now, of course, both the light and foghorn are computerized.  The current inn keepers, Heather Graham and Mark Zinkiewicz,  are in charge of the general welfare of the building and the superb hospitality offered to the guests that arrive to inhabit the two guest suites.

 The 360degree view of gleaming blue water is mesmerizing. Layers of rocks, sparkling with veins of quartz and mica surround the lighthouse—more at low tide--and boating activity from sleek yachts to sturdy, rough-sided lobster boats can be seen making their way in the ocean beyond. The surge and splash of the North Atlantic is constant and soothing.

Ahhh!

All this and outstanding food, as well. From chocolate chip banana muffins and vegetable and ham omelets for breakfast to grilled steak, Cornish hen or salmon or haddock, for a beautifully presented dinner. Both Heather and Mark are great cooks. Make no mistake. We may have been in a lighthouse, but we were not roughing it! The two bedrooms and the lounge are elegant and fitted out to perfection. 

I wish I could say I was thinking great thoughts. I wasn't. I was just watching a swirling tide pool below.

The Inn has been open for two years. Again from the website: “This luxurious retreat is available to adventurous travelers who want to experience their own private island while staying in the lighthouse. Guests are transported to the Cuckolds by licensed Launch Captains in a restored Navy motor whaleboat. Resident Keepers welcome visitors to the island, provide tours of the fully preserved historic Light Tower, serve as concierges and hosts to overnight guests, help maintain and protect the island and Station, and ensure visitors’ delight.” http://innatcuckoldslighthouse.com/

All true. A totally memorable experience.